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  • Writer's pictureDIY Dad

A Cheap Fix!


There's been a real problem with paper towel holders in both my household and my Mother-in-law's household.


In my house, our previous paper towel holder was stainless steel. It was really nice and shiny, and worked well...until it started to rust. Clearly, not really stainless steel. Not only that, but it started getting slimy on the underside from the inevitable water that collects around the sink. So, naturally, it went in the trash. Since then, we've been kind of letting the roll sit upright on the countertop until it inevitably falls over and rolls off the counter, or into the sink, etc...


In my Mother-in-law's house, it's a different story. She's got an old, heavy antique paper towel holder....


Problem #1 is that it was made in a simpler time. A time when paper towel rolls were not as robust. Getting a new, COSTCO-SIZED paper towel roll on there is a real challenge. And then, when it's on there, it doesn't tear off easily and it gets stuck.


Problem #2, it's too large and heavy. When it slips off it's stoop and falls into the sink, it's makes a real loud "CLANG," accompanied with a possible dent in the sink.


And lastly, Problem #3 (and perhaps the most sinister of all), is the rooster. This particular antique paper towel holder has a slip-on "rooster cap" that goes on top of the paper towel roll when it's refilled. You have to take it off when replacing the roll.


No big deal there.


The problem is when the rooster flies across the room when attempting to rip off a sheet when the roll that is too big for the slim antique paper towel holder gets stuck. Usually, this results in the rooster falling in the sink, the paper towel holder falling in the sink, and a general barrage of curses and aggravated sounds.


Clearly, the problem was much larger at my Mother-in-law's, but we both have the same problem nonetheless.


I saw a Pin on Pinterest that was brought to my attention that seemed easy (and cheap!) enough to pull off without a hitch.


I don't usually share the exact price of the supplies it takes to make something, but in this case, I'll make an exception. After all, it's bad for business! But, for this one, I want to show you all how cheap and easy it was!


Let's get started!

I had to make the base first. I used a piece of scrap, 3/4" thick spruce I had left over from another project. It was about 5.5" wide, so I just cut it to length at 5.5" to make a perfect square. You want a big enough square so that the whole thing won't tip over easily when it's loaded.


Now, I used scrap wood for this, and you should too! Even pallet wood would do. But, I reckon you could fetch a 5.5" square piece of spruce for around 50 cents.


Luckily, I didn't have to!


+$.00


Next step was running the wood squares through the sander and smoothing out the edges!

I already had my palm sander out and ready, so I just used that.


For the sake of my sanity, I won't be counting small, incidental supplies that most people should have on hand. Sandpaper should be one of them. And this could have easily been done by hand, but if you have the tools, then use them!


+$.00


Moving on!

I bought the industrial pipes and fittings from Home Depot. The fittings are 1/2" and they all fit together nicely. I initially purchased a 1.5 foot pipe (the one above is 1 foot), which was a BIG mistake (literally). So, I returned it and got the right one. The pipe did need some de-greasing before assembly. All these supplies were cheap and available at your local hardware store (or online using ship-to-store, like me!).


+$2.67 - 1/2" black iron caps (2-PACK)

+$7.97 - 1/2" black iron floor flanges (2-PACK)

+$9.42 - 1/2" X 12-inch black steel pipe connector (2)


I used the floor flange centered on each piece of wood and pre-drilled the holes before staining...

On to stain!

I decided on Minwax Dark Walnut stain on this one. I applied it using a shop rag and let it dry fully before handling. But, you could use any stain you want or have on hand. Or, you could leave it natural! The choice is yours!


+$.00


On to poly!

Now, polyurethane is an absolute must for this project, since it's going to be exposed to water regularly. I decided on spray-on, water-based matte finish poly, and I really caked it on there. It'll keep the piece looking rustic, which appeals to both of our tastes. Oh, and don't worry about the white spots; they dry on clear!


Now, the amount of poly is almost impossible to price out for the amount I used. So, I'm going to go ahead and count that with stuff you should have on hand. Even if you don't, just go out and buy a small can of general-use poly to have whenever you need it. You won't regret it!


+$.00


After letting the poly dry completely on both sides, I went ahead and screwed the floor flanges into each piece of wood...

I used salvaged screws with an antique bronze finish. I think I pulled these off of a furniture piece that I intended to repurpose, but ended up reconsidering. They are 1/2" screws with large heads to make sure they don't slip through the flange screw holes.


I looked into it, and brand new 1/2" screws with large heads and a similar finish are about $2.50 for a pack of 25 or so. So, it would cost about $.40 to buy the screws if you don't have them on hand...


But I did! So, no money added there!


+$.00


Next step is assembly!

Pretty straight forward from here! But I did add one more thing...

On the underside of each one, I added a cork round. This should help keep the moisture away and also prevent slipping and sliding on the counter tops. I had them on hand from the reclaimed wood coasters I did (check them out!).


Since this step isn't absolutely necessary and I had them on hand, I won't be adding this into the total either. I would definitely recommend to add something to the bottom, mostly to lift it off the counter surface and to keep it from moving. For your own reference, I got a pack of 50 self-adhering cork rounds for $15 on Amazon, which would break down to $.30 each.


+$.00

And that's all she wrote! Two hand-made, industrial/rustic paper towel holders ready for use!


Now for the total for both (before taxes):


$.00 - wood scraps (in stock)

$.00 - stain (in stock)

$.00 - sandpaper (in stock)

$.00 - 1/2" screws (in stock)

$.00 - matte polyurethane (in stock)

$.00 - self-adhering cork rounds (in stock)

+$2.67 - 1/2" black iron caps (2-PACK)

+$7.97 - 1/2" black iron floor flanges (2-PACK)

+$9.42 - 1/2" X 12-inch black steel pipe connector (2)

__________________________________________________________________________________

$20.06 - TOTAL FOR 2 PAPER TOWEL HOLDERS

OR


$10.03 EACH


Now that's a good deal!


Just to give you an idea, these EXACT SAME THINGS are selling on Etsy for $30+


That's a 300% mark-up!


Now that you know how easy it is, I urge you to try and make one yourself. But, if you're still thinking it's too much work and you want the product without the work, hit me up and I'll be happy to make one for you!


Just don't expect me to sell it to you for $10.03!


Until next time!


-Kevin

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